I Get Around

I knew from the beginning that when I got to Bulgaria, I would take full advantage and try to see as much of the country as I could. I feel that halfway through my service I've managed to see more than the average volunteer. There are still some corners of the country that I haven't made it to yet, but I think that, overall, I've done pretty well getting around this country. Traveling around this country is a great many things that make it so special. It's exciting, exhausting, stifling hot, freezing cold, frustrating, and convenient all at the same time. But, above all other things, it's always an adventure.

There are two main methods of transportation for volunteers in Bulgaria: bus and train. The trains are cheaper, more reliable, and (I believe) generally more enjoyable but take longer. The buses are faster, will either give you a heart attack or make you sick (if it's your first time), and are more expensive. So, always take a train. It seems simple enough, right? Wrong. Not every town or village is accessible by train, so there are many cases in which buses are a must. I'm pretty lucky because my village is a short bus ride to a train station, so it's relatively easy for me to get around. Now I will dispense some delightful traveling anecdotes for you.

I remember my very first bus experience during our training. Now, we had been carted around the country by bus before we got to our training sites. But those buses were nice tour buses that had heating and air-conditioning and were just for us, so we all fit comfortably in them. We were spoiled. We had to go from our town of Byala Slatina to a nearby town of Knezha (pronounced just how it's spelled) for a teachers training. Our language trainer, Tanya, had warned us that it would most likely be full and that we needed to get there early to guarantee seats. We had managed to do just that. However, Kevin and I had to take seats all the way in the back of a bus that was only meant for 15, but was somehow holding 25. I was squished up against a window, with my book bag in my lap, and Kevin on the other side of me about to puke at any moment (he had been sick the day before because he had eaten some bad chicken paste). As the bus pulled out of the station and onto the street, it became obvious that paved roads were a thing of the New World and barely existed here. We bumped around for about 20 minutes that felt more like an hour. It was only an added bonus that all of the seats surrounding Kevin and myself were filled with teenage lovers who were eating each other's faces the entire ride. When we finally did arrive in Knezha, it was all I could do to not kiss the ground.

Another bus experience I had was rather recently. I had to go to Pleven to get my ID card and I was returning back to my village by bus. I wanted to stop at a large grocery store before I left so that I could get some different kinds of fruit that aren't available to me everyday. I thought I had timed it all perfectly, but as I was checking out at the grocery store, I realized that there was a good chance that I would miss my bus and be forced to take a train and then a taxi to my village. This would be a blow to my wallet that I didn't want to make. So, once I shoved all of my groceries into my bag, I speed walked then jogged then sprinted to the bus station and was relieved to see an older woman still getting on the bus. I boarded after she did and payed the driver for my ticked. It was instantly that I realized that this bus was not air-conditioned, which was something that I was used to. Then it really hit me. None of the windows could be opened except for the one by the bus driver and I didn't think he would appreciate me sitting on his lap. This realization was terrible for me. There was no ventilation in this bus. The sun was beating in on me and my black tank top (because everyone knows that black is more flattering) and I was dripping with sweat and felt like a turkey being prepared for Thanksgiving dinner. I was, actually, mainly concerned for my groceries. Some of my items were meant to be refrigerated. Luckily, the sun moved to the other side of the bus and didn't bother me anymore and I eventually cooled down. I made it back to my village in one (only slightly) overheated piece and my groceries made it as well. A happy ending for all.

It becomes a real experience when forces of nature have to be taken into account when making travel plans. I know the perfect place to sit on the bus when it's like an oven outside to maximize a cooler air flow. You should only sit in a train compartment with a working window and with younger people during the summer. Older Bulgarians think that the cool air that flows into the compartment will cause you to get sick and die. During the winter, there's no real hope for keeping warm unless you get lucky and your train or (big) bus is heated. The smaller buses never are, so you have to take that into account while you're getting dressed for the day. Wear lots of layers and thick socks. I hope these stories have entertained you and my advice will benefit you if you ever find yourself traveling in Bulgaria.